Jebo Power
Saltwater Fish and Nano Reef Basics
These fundamentals are intended for a Marine Aquarium fish (basic and Nano Reef), not an advanced Reef Aquarium marine. A properly set up and maintain saltwater aquariums can be relatively easy to maintain, in fact, sometimes easier for some Freshwater Fish as hard.
These facts and opinions are based on my experience of keeping and maintaining Marine Fish professionally (and reefs) aquariums with over 27 years with a major aquarium maintenance companies in Los Angeles, California.
NANO REEFS:
Nano reef much of this basic information is applied. I still recommend a UV sterilizer if it can be fitted to nano reefs (a small internal filter as a Via Aqua 305 Internal Filter "connected to a compact UV works well)
* Cured Live Rock is a necessity.
* A # 00 of fine sand with a ½ "layer of sand # 3 of the best works the best in my opinion for cleaning and denitrification.
* Changes in water and periodic monitoring of water parameters are a must (do not forget to check the alkaline reserve, KH same as in FW). Parameters of the water changes more rapidly in an aquarium Nano.
* Two Compact Light energy, change every six months and cleaned regularly in the middle. That should be a light and actinic or two 50/50.
[1] of filtration, filtration Good is imperative to the success of a marine aquarium. There are many available filters also different.
Canister filters are good for your ability, but can become a nitrate factory not washed very regularly. I Fluvals recommend due to poor driver design. Through Aqua. Eheim, Jebo, and Magnum are the ones I recommend.
Wet / dry filters are good, but it Mechanical filters are generally poor. The media bio ball they should also be washed regularly in de-chlorinated water to prevent accumulation of organic material, increased nitrates.
Drain systems with live rock, plants, and sponge filters work well. Live rock is excellent for filtration aerobics (ammonia and nitrite removal) and anaerobic filtration (nitrate removal). Live plants and green algae are good for nitrogen fixation and removal of phosphate. The Sponge Filter is easy to clean filter and aerobic bio-mechanical filter.
As for the rock, I recommend using it. Make sure you are cured, many shops sell live rock right after it is them, and this does not cure the live rock. Rock Live hits stores involved in newsprint and mostly dead by this time, it takes up to 6 weeks to heal completely rock. Fully cured live rock has the advantage of containing bacteria aerobic and anaerobic conditions, the afternoon helps convert nitrates into nitrogen that is released harmlessly into the atmosphere. Cured live rock also contains many "creatures", many of which are interesting and beneficial. You can also create your own using rock high in calcium carbonate, or even the skeletons of corals killed by their inclusion in healthy cured live rock for a couple of months in a healthy aquarium (UPS set of reefs are best for this). It is important to use highly porous rock of wealth rock own
Wait back filters are very limited, but can also be used, especially if combined with other bio filters. Internal filters are also limited, but again are good combined with others.
Ecosystem mud filtration is effective for the removal of nitrate (due to the large colonies of anaerobic bacteria), which are much simpler to use than a Protein Skimmer, in my opinion (which I believe are best-selling Aquarium Fish).
Unfortunately, There are many stores to push these systems as the end all of the leak, and are not. This is a good part of a system, but should not be the only part. Good mechanical other types of biological filtration, and filtration, especially germicidal are also important.
More information on the removal of nitrates filtration;
(A) As mentioned above, filter mud can be very useful for the removal of nitrates, you can do with a simple filter HOB sump or aquarium. (With the head of the bed should be placed in the media or fine mesh nylon filter bags so as not to cause harm the impeller, also keep the bags out of the area of high flow filter). [1] First use of a 2 cm layer of # 3 gravel on top. [2] After 5 cm of sand # 00. [3] Then you can make your own mulm anaerobic topsoil, washing the fine soil in a solution of 10 / 1 of chlorine, then rinse again until clean (you can add a de-chlorination to remove the bleach). This goes in the bottom of the sump in a layer about 2 inches thick.
(B) Also as mentioned above, a large amount of cured live rock is very useful for the removal of nitrates
(C) plants or green algae (as Caulerpa algae) in the aquarium or refugium.
(D) Pre-Filters as ATIS "Filter Max" in the intake filter, which are easy to rinse and remove the material organic before it can go through the nitrogen cycle.
(E) Skimmers
(F) Metal Halide lighting. I know it seems off topic, but I found that metal halide lighting helps with nitrate levels, even when other filters are poor. I have no scientific proof, but I think redox potential (350 mV) helps maintain this view has much to do with it.
Filter redundancy is also important, as filters / pumps can be changed. Extra filters also increase bio and mechanical filtration. An economical combination would be a sponge filter, internal filter, and a wing in the back (output filter).
For more information on filtration, please see this website: target = "_blank"> "Aquarium filtration "
[2] Lighting, a 10,000 K Daylight bulb is a start, better would be a day 50/50 / 420nm actinic bulb, or Better yet would be one of each.
[3] Test Kits, one of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and KH (alkalinity) Test Kit is important.
[4] Water Chemistry; Start with a sea salt and a good mix with a specific gravity of 1019 to 1021 for fish.
Add trace elements and buffer tank. Seachem makes an excellent product called Coral Calcium From maintaining KH, adds complex polygluconate bioavailable calcium. Many products do not add calcium and magnesium (as Kalkwasser), and both are needed together for the right chemistry and fish health. It is noteworthy that unlike the freshwater fish, which absorb the water around them, marine fish drink water constantly, which affects their internal body chemistry in the surrounding water.
Keep the ammonia and nitrites 0, pH to 8,2-8,4, kH 200 ppm nitrate below 20 ppm. Change water regularly using a vacuum of gravel, especially in areas of accumulation of waste, this help keep down the nitrates.
[5] The UV sterilization, UV sterilizers are in my opinion, is not essential but are very important. Sterilizers UV help prevent diseases and help maintain a proper redox potential (oxidation properties of water). The redox potential is often overlooked by many aquarists both SW and FW. For more information, see my article on "Aquarius UV Sterilization and how it works "
[6] Fisheries and adequate nutrition, not in public a marine aquarium. The amount of fish depends on the surface of the aquarium and the type of fish. My article "Basics of Aquarius" approached. Feeding marine fish according to food type which, of course, eat in the wild. Aquatic food base or Spirulina HBH Marine Flake 20 Flake Fish food are good generic Tangs, angels, clown fish, the EC Treaty. (The angels also need sponge in their diet).
This is a basic article for more information Please see this article MUCH larger, with more resources, photos, and marine information: target = "_blank"> "basic elements Saltwater Aquarium Fish and Nano-Reef
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About the Author
By Carl Strohmeyer
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Information.html
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